Method of facing sleeves



Sept. 4, 1945.

S. TOULOUMIS METHOD OF FAGING SLEEVES Filed Sept. 2o, 1945 2'Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented Sept. 4, 1945 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE SimonTouloumis, 'wlroy,N. Y., assgnor to Cluet't,

Peabody &'Co.,. Inc., Troy, N. Y.,v a corporation of'New York` Application September 20, 1943, Serial No. 503,081

4 Claims.

This invention relates to the manufacture of garments, for example, shirts; ri'dingv breeches, dresses, etc., and more particularly to ai novel method of facing` slit openings in suohlgarments, such, for instan-ce, as in thesleeve ofwa shirt, the lower portion of the leg of riding breeches; or the'neck opening in the back. of a dress.

It is customary, for example, tofsli't the sleeve of a shirt upwardly fromthe wrist to facilitate turning back the cuff, and:` theraw edges of th'e sleeve material resulting fromV such slittngtare: commonly faced with material similar to that of the sleeve proper. Ordinarily one facing is wider than the other,` the wider facing overlapping the narrower facing when the: cuff is buttoned.

In accordance with a practice customarily followed in making finer gradesl of shirts, the

sleeve facings are madefrom strips of'fa-bric' out to proper length andy width and the operatorV stitches the facing material to` the shirt mate'- rial, then folds the facing material about the raw edge of Ithe shirt material and` again'` stitches the facing material to the shirt material. Twov separate sewing operationsl with an intervening folding operation are thus necessary,v and since lthe folding isr done by hand, there isf no certainty that the attachedi facing will .be of uniform Width from end to end, or that-the facings of dierent shirts will be of the samey width.

The principal object of the present invention` is to provide a novel method of facing slit open-- ings in garments, for example shirtssleeves, suchl as to insure substantial uniformity throughoutthe Width of any individual facingl,.asv welll asiv uniformity of width of facings of different gar# ments. This and other objects andY advantages of the invention will be pointed out in' thefollowing more detailed' description withnspecic ap' plication of the invention to a; shirt sleeve by" way of illustrative example but withoutlimitaltion to shirts, and by reference' tothe' accompanying drawings wherein Fig. 1 is a fragmentary view of the sleeve of a shirt or similar garment provided' with' facings in accordance with the present invention;

Fig. 2 is a view similar to Fig'vl-but with the cuff unbuttoned to show the innerl facing strip;

Fig. 3v is a fragmentary view ofthe inner' sur-- face of the material usedY in making th'e sleeve;v

terial prepared in the form of a roll forense in the practice of the present invention;

Fig. 5 is a view similar to Fig. 3 but showing the narrow or inner facing strip-applied to; one margin of the slit in the sleeve material Fig. 6' is a diagrammatic section on the line 8-6 of Fig. 5; l y y Fig. 'l is a view similar to Fig. 5 but showing' the opposite side of the'sleeve materialV with the wider' or outer facing strip attached to'th'e opposite margin of thelslit in the sleeve material;

Fig. 8 is a diagrammatic section on the line il---Sl of Fig. '7;

Fig. 9 is a View from the' opposite side' of sleeve facing from that shown in Fig.v 7; n

Fig. l0 is a view similar'to Fig. 9` but show ing a further step in the operation; and

Fig. 11 is a view similar to Fig. rI 'indicating the completion of the operation.

Referring to the drawings `(Fig. 1), thel nu-A meral I designates a sleeve having a cuff 2. The` sleeve1 has the outer Vfacing member' 3 extendingthe inwardly from the cuff, andthe button* B for' wound to formrollsiS", as rshown in Fig. 4. Strips I2 and I2X (Fig. y8) of different widths arepror vided, strip I2 being a narrow or inner facing and the strip I2X being the wider or outer facing. strip. While it is preferred to provide this ma-f'- terial in long lengths and*v to roll it for convenience in applying it, it is within the scopeof thevv invention to provide the facing material in lengths each just sufficient toY form one facing.-

Each facing strip kis of a width enough greater than twice the width of the -com-pletedafacing.

to provide for inturned hems at its edges.

In applying the facing. strip I2 (Figs. 5V and) it is rst doubled substantially along its center I3v to provide two plies I4 and I5 of equal widtlr; and the edges I6 and I1 of these'pliesare turned inwardly to provide a hem finish. Onemargin,`

for examplel the margin 1,. ofv the shirtsleeve' yond the base Ill-II of the triangle 8, for example, a distance approximating the Width of the folded strip.

The other strip I2X (Fig. 8) Yis likewise lfolded l along its center line to form the fold and plies 2I and 22, and the edges of these plies are turned in at 23 and 24 to form a hem finish.V The oppo' site margin 6 of the sleeve material is introduced between the inturned edges 23 and 24 of the widerr strip and is connected to the'latter by a seam 25 which extends lengthwise of the slit 5 to the point II, beyond which the seam merely connects the inturned edges 23 and 24 without passing through the shirt material. 'Ihe wider strip lZX thus extends in the form of a tabT beyond the base Ill-II of the tongue 8 to the point I9X (Fig. 7), the length of thistab T between the point I9X and the base of the tongue being approximately 11/2 times the width of the folded strip.

In carrying out the above described folding,

i hemming sewing operations, it is convenientrto perform these operations progressively bypass- YingYthe strip material and the sleeve material through a suitable scroll type hemmer in a sewing machine, the work thus being doubled and hemmed and stitched together in a single operation. Since the facing material is of uniform width and is doubled before or during application, and sinceY the edges which are thus turned in are of substantially equal width, the completed facing 3 is of uniform width from end to end; likewise the facings of successively made shirts are of the same uniform'width, thus providing a great irn- [provement as compared with previous methods which have resulted in a great variation in the width of individualfacings and in the widthsv of the facings of different shirts.

. Having secured the two facings as described, the triangular tongue V8 is folded back along itsA base line to lie against the outer surface of the i sleeve material, the narrow tab I9 is laid over the folded back tongue 8, and the wider tab T is laid over the tab I9 so as to conceal the latter.' The corners 21 and 28 ofthe tab T are now turned in, as shown in Fig. 1l, and a seam 29 is Vformed l so-as to border the parallel edges of this portion of the strip and to extend along the diagonal lines formed by turning in the corners 21 and 28. This seam is continued as shown at 3B so astro extend transverselyracross the strip thestitches extending through the material of both tabs,

through the tongue and through the sleeve mate-A rial, thus securing the tongue in itsv folded-in position. This procedure provides a much better and more nished appearance at the inside 'of the sleeve than results from usual prior practice, and furnishes a strong terminal construction for i. the inner end of the slit such as effectively to prevent ripping or tearing at this point.

While one desirable embodiment ofthe invention has been illustrated and described by way of example, it is to be understoodfthat the inven-v 1. That method of facing the edges of a slit shirt sleeve having a slit extending inwardly from its wrist end, the inner end'of the slit being dened by a triangular tongue, which comprises as steps providing lengths ofv4 facing material,

doubling each strip and turning in its edges, then inserting the opposite margins of the sleeve material between the doubled-in edges ofthe respective strips and sewing said edges and margins together, each strip being extended beyond the base of said triangular tongue a short distance to form free tabs each approximating the width of the respective folded strip, folding the triangular tongue back across the outer surface of the sleeve material, lapping one of the tabs over the folded tongue, lapping the other tab over the first tab, and forming a transverse seam substantially at the base of the tongue.

2. That method of facing the edge of a slit shirt sleeve having a slit extending inwardly from its Wrist end, the inner end of the slit being defined by a triangular tongue, which comprises as steps providing two lengths of facing material, doubling and turning in the edges of each strip, introducing one margin of the shirt material between the vturned-in edges of each of the respective strips and sewing said margins to the turned-in edges of the respective strips while causing the ends of the strips to extend, unconnected to said margins, beyond the base of the tongue a distance approximating the width of the respective folded strips to form free tabs, folding back the triangular tongue against the outer surface of the sleevematerial, disposing the tab of the first applied strip over rthe folded tongue, disposing the tab of the other strip over the rst tab, turning in. the corners. of the projecting end portion of thelast-m'entioned tab, andY forming a seam bordering said last-mentioned tab,'and uniting it and the tongue to the sleeve material, said seam extending transversely across both tabs at a point zbeyond the end of the slit.

v3. 'I'hat method of facing the edges of a slit garment part having a slit whose inner end is delined by a triangular tongue, said method com- Y prising as steps providing lengths of ribbon-like facing material in Ltwo different widths, each` length beingy sufficient to form a sleeve facing, doubling the narrower strip and turning in its edges, introducing one margin of they garment material between the turned in edges of said narrowerffacing strip and securing the margin and said turned in .edges by a single sewed seam, the seam being continued beyond the end of the slit opening in such a way as to unite the turned in edgesof the facing without passing through the tion is broadly inclusive of any and all m'odica- Within the scope of the appended claims.

were i sleeve material, thereby forming a tab ofa length substantially equalling thewidth of the folded facing, doubling the wider strip and turning in I its edges, introducing the other margin of the garment material between the turned in edges of the latterstrip, securing said latter margin and turned in edges by a single sewed seam which is extended beyond the ,end of the slit opening in such a way as to unite the turned in edges of the facing without passing through .the sleeve material, thereby forming a tab of a length which is substantially one and one-halftimes the Width of the folded facing, folding the triangular tongue back along its base line so that it contacts the outer surface of the' garment part, laying the tab of the-.narrower facing over the folded tongue, laymg;V the tabl of.V the Wider facing .over the .tab of the narrower facing so as to conceal thevlat ter, forming a sewed seam extending transversely across the wider tab at a. point beyond the end of the slit, the stitches of said seam passing through both tabs, the tongue and the garment part, turning in the corners of the tab of the wider strip, and uniting said tab to the sleeve material by a seam which borders the parallel edges of the wider tab and extends along the diagonal lines resultant from turning in the corners of the tab.

4. That method of facing the edges of a slit in a garment part which comprises as steps providing two strips of facing material each of substantially uniform Width, but one wider than the other, each strip being of a length somewhat greater than the length of the slit, doubling the narrower strip, turning in its longitudinal edges, introducing one margin of the garment part between the turned-in .edges of the facing strip and uniting the margin and said turned-in edges by a sewed seam which is continued beyond the end 20 of the slit in such a way as to unite the edges of the facing without passing through the garment material thereby forming a free two-ply tab of the facing material beyond the end of the slit, similarly doubling the wider strip, turning in its edges, introducing the other margin of the garment part between said turned-in edges of the wider strip, and uniting the latter margin and the edges of the strip by a sewed seam which is continued beyond the end of the slit in such a way as to unite the edges of the wider facing strip without passing through the garment part, thereby providing a free two-ply tab of the wider strip beyond the end of the slit, laying the narrower tab down against the outer surface of the garment part beyond the end of the slit, laying the wider tab down over the narrower tab so as to conceal the latter, forming a sewed seam extending transversely across both tabs and through the garment part at a point beyond the end of the slit, and uniting the free margins of the wider tab to the garment part by sewing stitches.

SIMON TOULOUMIS. 

